Monday, November 2, 2009

The Common Ancestors Of Dogs By Grant Carroll

Grant Carroll

The great multitude of different breeds of dog and the vast differences in their size, points, and general appearance are facts which make it hard to believe that they have a shared ancestry. One thinks of the difference between the Mastiff and the Japanese Spaniel, the Deerhound and the puffy Pomeranian, the St. Bernard and the Miniature Black and Tan Terrier as well as the beloved Chihuahua, and is perhaps confused by the possibility of their having descended from a common progenitor. However, the difference is no greater than between types of horses, cattle or even humans; and all dog breeders know the simple steps needed to produce a variety in type and size by breeding.


Before one can fully understand that all dogs as well as their wild counterparts share a close relation, one must start by learning the basic physical similarities between them. The skeletal system of the two animals is an ideal place to begin study since they are virtually interchangeable. The spine of the dog consists of seven vertebrae in the neck, thirteen in the back, seven in the loins, three sacral vertebrae, and twenty to twenty-two in the tail. In both the dog and the wolf there are thirteen pairs of ribs, nine true and four false. Each has forty-two teeth. They both have five front and four hind toes, while outwardly the common wolf has so much the appearance of a large, bare-boned dog, that a popular description of the one would serve for the other.


The habits of both species are similar as well. In the wild, wolves are known to howl in their packs, but as soon as a wolf is grouped with dogs, he takes on barking behavior. Although he is carnivorous, he will also eat vegetables, and when sickly he will nibble grass. Hunting behavior is also very similar among wolves and sporting dogs; they both hunt in packs and divide up strategically to catch their victims.


A further significant point of resemblance between the wild wolf and the Canis familiaris lies in the fact that the period of gestation in both species is sixty-three days. There are from three to nine cubs in a wolf's litter, and they are blind for twenty-one days. They are nursed for two months, but at the end of that time they can eat half-digested flesh regurgitated for them by their dam or even their sire.


Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=115556&ca=Pets

How To Get A Puppy To Stop Chewing On Everything By Ira Nelson

Ira Nelson

One of the most extensively searched puppy related areas on the Internet is how to get a puppy to stop chewing, probably because it is a very natural thing for a puppy to do… It is one of the ways he explores his world. Obviously though, you don’t want him exploring the leg of the dining room table, that new tube of toothpaste, or your expensive Italian shoes.


It only becomes a problem when he is allowed to chew on inappropriate items and is not redirected to the proper ones. Because it is natural and normal, it would be going down the wrong path to try to totally eliminate this behavior. It is much more realistic to try to channel the puppy’s chewing activities toward his chew toys which you provide.


It is an invitation for trouble to allow a puppy to wander around uncontrolled and unsupervised. He will just naturally get himself into hot water because he does not yet understand which activities are allowed and which are not. One thing I like to do as part of a puppy’s training routine is to tether him to my belt with a short length (perhaps 6’ or so to so) of light clothesline or rope. As he gets older you can increase it to 10 feet.


The purpose for this is get him used to being close to you and so you can be sure he is always under your observation. This is particularly helpful in preventing him from wandering off if you get distracted by another matter. If he tries to chew on something that’s off limits, give him a firm ‘NO’ and put his chew toy or bone directly in his mouth instead. The key to how to get a puppy to stop chewing is that you use redirection, behavior modification and be persistent, consistent, and patient at all times. Chewing on anything other the approved toys is not acceptable.


If you seriously want to stop puppy chewing don’t confuse him by giving him an old shoe or sock or anything that has the same texture, feel, or smell of items that are off limits.


It will also help to get down to the puppy’s eye level to see what he sees and discover things that may be irresistible to him to chew on. Are there exposed electrical cords, is you wallet or handbag on the coffee table, does he have access to the shoe closet? If you remove these types of things from his line of vision you will also remove the temptation to chew on them.


Something else I’m a strong believer in is the use of a crate as a ‘den’ for when the puppy is sleeping or otherwise unsupervised. By placing his chew toys with him in the crate he will further get the connection that these are his and it is ok to chew them.


Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=134444&ca=Pets

Sunday, November 1, 2009

Tips For Training Older Dogs By Steve John Cowan

Steve John Cowan

Almost universally, when people talk about dog training, or dog obedience coaching or whatever other phrase they use for it, they have in the back of their mind an image of working with a young dog, often not much more than a puppy.


And, again, it's a widely held belief that you can’t teach an old dog new tricks. So, how true is that? Is it possible to train an older dog?


Well, yes and no!


The cliché mongers are partly right, because a more mature animal does need a heck of a lot more training and dedication from the person involved than a younger dog will. This is primarily because dogs are, to a large extent, like people, and by the time they are grown, they are much more “set” in their ways.


A more mature animal will certainly have gone through, and possibly way past, that crucial period in his or her life when what they are learning will have any profound changing influence on their future behavior. In basic terms, and again you can make a direct comparison to mankind, your dog is already of the formed opinion that it knows how to behave and thus, trying to change that perception and belief by attempting to teach him other ways is bound to require a great deal of both time and effort.


Whilst it is certainly not impossible to convince the older dog that new tricks do have some merit, you must accept from the outset that you simply cannot train an old dog in the same way that you would train a puppy.


You definitely have to learn to be a little bit stricter with an older dog simply because he has a good deal more native intelligence than a puppy and he also knows how to drive you crazy!


So, how do you train an older dog? Well, not only do you have to be a bit stricter, but you have to be a good deal more cunning as well! In the same way that the more mature canine is a good deal more cunning than his younger siblings, you have to be the same!


Get him convinced that your ideas are really his ideas, or, make him believe that everything he does was his idea in the first place, and he will be far more likely do something whatever it is you ask!


For example, if he goes to sit down of his own accord, say 'sit' and then praise him!


Thus, he believes that it was his idea and after a while, if you just keep on repeating the methodology, eventually you will have him sitting on command.


This system will work for many of the necessary commands, like, come, stay, fetch and heel.


Now, of course, this is, by nature a broad generalization and, as all pet owners are only too aware, not all animals are the same, or learn at the same pace. So, you might find that your particular more mature pet is wonderfully easy to train. On the other hand, some dogs have a wide streak of stubbornness which will mean that they are much more resistant to change and thus, they are more difficult to train, irregardless of what you do.


Nevertheless, even an older dog must be trained to your ways in order that any acquired or indeed natural bad habits are broken and banished.


Although you may find it hard to believe, if he could speak, your dog would probably thank you for it in the end, simply because the less tension there is between dog and owner, the happier and more calm the relationship will be, to the obvious benefit of both parties!


But, do not carry any 'rosy colored' illusions! It is important that you face the fact that training a more mature dog could be a grueling and thankless task at times.


It is therefore vitally important that you try to make it as much fun as possible. You could start by joining a dog training or obedience class (contrary to popular belief, they are not just for 'puppy people') and don't hesitate to gather as much support as possible from family and friends. Perhaps you could afford to invest in some good quality, durable training products like toys and treats, but, remember, your dog is more mature and intelligent, so try to pick toys that will challenge and stimulate him.


Whatever you do, the only certainty is that, however long it might take, once you’ve managed to teach your older dog everything it is necessary for him to know, the bond between you will become unbreakable, and the pleasure that you both get from such a relationship will remain a wonderful constant over the years.


Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=127605&ca=Pets

Dog Clothes: Are Dog Owners Really That Strange? By Paul Easton

Paul Easton

Some dogs love dressing up, and some people like dressing their 'best friends' to look like humans. Dog clothes are an extension of their love for them, treating them like members of the family.


But why do dog lovers buy dog clothes? – I asked my customers and got the following answers:


1. Comfort for my dogs during winter


2. Sometimes we think out dog is human


3. I like to dress my dog up so people will make a fuss over her


There are, however, real reasons to consider using dog apparel as well. Apart from our own desire to dress our dogs in human clothing, there are often practical reasons to do so.


Dogs that have had medical treatments that result in the loss of fur will often need at least some protection from the weather until their fur grows back. This also applies to dogs that have been shaved for agility and show reasons.


People who live in colder winter climates should keep in mind that even though their pets have fur, they may need protection from the elements when they spend most of their time indoors, because they acclimate to their indoor surroundings.


Short-haired dogs are almost bald on the chest and belly, so be sure to select dog clothing that covers the lower portions of their bodies as well as the top.


Most dogs don't like the rain, and if your pet spends most of his time indoors, you probably don't enjoy the musty smell or the water and mud. With some water proof, quality dog clothes, almost all this can easily be avoided.


Polar fleece is also a good protective fabric; it insulates and keeps the dog warm while keeping the skin dry. Booties are good for dogs in snow, ice and rain.


Booties can also be used to protect a dog's pads from hot ground surfaces. Remember that while a dog's pads are less sensitive than our own feet, they are still sensitive to extreme temperatures. If they start walking strangely, and it’s a hot day, the ground maybe hotter than you realise!


Getting your dog to accept wearing apparel


Proper fit is key for getting your dog to accept dog apparel. However, ease of getting the garment on and off is a new experience for your dog. Start by putting the clothing item on and rewarding the dog with praise and they will come to enjoy the process. Leave the item on for a short period. The next time, try leaving the garment on for a longer period of time, again praising and rewarding your pet. Make a fuss over them in the process and they will come to connect this to the clothing item.


Sizing can be important. Getting the correct fitting clothes for your dog is very easy. There are a few simple ideas to help you get the correct size:


1. Take a string, a piece of yarn or your belt and measure your pup, then compare it to a ruler for an accurate measurement.


2. Don't go by the Coat / Sweater / Tee/ etc. you use today they will be very different


3. Use more than One person to get an accurate measurement


4. Allow one size bigger for thick coats


As a general rule, measuring should be done along the dog's backbone from the Base of the Head to the Base of the Tail, which is referred to as the 'top line measurement'. This is from the base of where the collar rests to where the tail is attached.


It is best to start this training as a puppy, but older dogs can also easily be trained with a little more patience. Suitable dog clothes can make your pet happy and healthy resulting in less trips to the vet and additional savings in money and time.


Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=116041&ca=Pets