How To Get A Puppy To Stop Chewing On Everything By Ira Nelson

One of the most extensively searched puppy related areas on the Internet is how to get a puppy to stop chewing, probably because it is a very natural thing for a puppy to do… It is one of the ways he explores his world. Obviously though, you don’t want him exploring the leg of the dining room table, that new tube of toothpaste, or your expensive Italian shoes.

It only becomes a problem when he is allowed to chew on inappropriate items and is not redirected to the proper ones. Because it is natural and normal, it would be going down the wrong path to try to totally eliminate this behavior. It is much more realistic to try to channel the puppy’s chewing activities toward his chew toys which you provide.

It is an invitation for trouble to allow a puppy to wander around uncontrolled and unsupervised. He will just naturally get himself into hot water because he does not yet understand which activities are allowed and which are not. One thing I like to do as part of a puppy’s training routine is to tether him to my belt with a short length (perhaps 6’ or so to so) of light clothesline or rope. As he gets older you can increase it to 10 feet.

The purpose for this is get him used to being close to you and so you can be sure he is always under your observation. This is particularly helpful in preventing him from wandering off if you get distracted by another matter. If he tries to chew on something that’s off limits, give him a firm ‘NO’ and put his chew toy or bone directly in his mouth instead. The key to how to get a puppy to stop chewing is that you use redirection, behavior modification and be persistent, consistent, and patient at all times. Chewing on anything other the approved toys is not acceptable.

If you seriously want to stop puppy chewing don’t confuse him by giving him an old shoe or sock or anything that has the same texture, feel, or smell of items that are off limits.

It will also help to get down to the puppy’s eye level to see what he sees and discover things that may be irresistible to him to chew on. Are there exposed electrical cords, is you wallet or handbag on the coffee table, does he have access to the shoe closet? If you remove these types of things from his line of vision you will also remove the temptation to chew on them.

Something else I’m a strong believer in is the use of a crate as a ‘den’ for when the puppy is sleeping or otherwise unsupervised. By placing his chew toys with him in the crate he will further get the connection that these are his and it is ok to chew them.

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=134444&ca=Pets

Making Your Home Safe For Your New Puppy By V Brown

You've made the decision to bring a new puppy into your home. You've researched which breed will best suit your family and lifestyle and you've chosen where you're going to get your puppy from. You've gone and purchased some recommended chew toys and puppy foods and now you're just waiting for the moment you can bring your new family member home.

Before that time arrives though there are still several things you need to do so your home will be as puppy proof as possible, not only to save yourself a lot of time an money if they happen to chew something they shouldn't but also to protect your new puppy from harm.

Outside: Check all the fences - make sure there are no holes large enough for him to either crawl through or get stuck in.

Take note of where you keep your rubbish bins etc can your puppy get into them or overturn them?

If you have a garden shed make sure all harmful chemicals etc are off the floor and well out of reach - much like a young child your puppy will want to investigate everything it can.

Roll up your hoses and pick up any other gardening utensils you may tend to leave laying around unless you want them used as a chew toy.

If you have a prized garden area you may want to fence it off as while you're puppy is young there's a good chance they'll decide digging up your favourite roses is more fun than digging up the weeds.

Inside: If you have children remind them that the new puppy will not understand that their favourite toy shouldn't be slobbered on so they will need to pick it up and put it away. Puppies don't understand the difference between what they can chew on and what they can't.

Make sure all your electrical chords are hidden away.

Ensure all your cupboards can close properly, again like young children they have an inquisitive nature and will want to know what's behind that partially closed door.

If you have stairs or a room you don't want them to go in you may want to consider purchasing a wooden gate or similar that can be placed across the opening.

Be prepared for late night accidents, by making sure you have enough newspaper etc to cover the floors where you're puppy may be sleeping.

Training: You will want to start training your puppy as soon as possible and there are many tips to help you along way, but one of the key things to remember is consistency and patience.

Plan ahead of time what key phrases you are going to use eg sit, down or drop etc and always use the same one. Stock up on some puppy treats to use as a reward and remember to keep training fun and only for a limited time, your puppy will get bored reasonably quickly so keep it short.

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=130639&ca=Pets

Is An Australian Shepherd Puppy The Right Choice For Me And My Family? By Mitch Endick

The Australian Shepherd is a working sheep and farm dog that might do quite poorly in an apartment. They are vigorous dogs with high intelligence that were bred to think and work. They require at the least, a properly fenced in enclosure and at the best, a farm to run and work. They form strong bonds with their family and demand a great deal of attention and time. They will follow their master from room to room in a house and want to ride in the car, help with chores, etc. If left alone for long periods of time, they may invent their own entertainment which can include destroying the furnishings or garden. They need to be properly socialized with children and pets and may nip at the heels of children. She is a very protective dog of both body and property.

*Approximate Adult Size. The approximate adult size (two years old or older) of the male Australian Shepherd is 20 to 23 inches to the withers (highest point of the shoulder) and from 50 to 65 pounds. The female should run about 18 to 21 inches to the withers and 40 to 55 pounds.

*Special Health Considerations. Some heartworm medications may be toxic to this breed due to a gene mutation.. Your veterinarian can test for this. She can suffer from canine hip dysplasia (genetic based looseness in the hip joint that can lead to arthritis pain and lameness), hereditary eye problems, hypothyroidism (sluggish thyroid gland which can result in weight gain), discoid lupus erythematosus (an autoimmune disease), cleft palate, seizures, von Willebrands disease (a problem with blood clotting), and patent ductus arteriosis (a circulatory abnormality).

*Grooming. Brush this breed often with a firm bristle brush and wash when necessary. She will shed quite a bit. Brushing will help keep your pets coat clean and healthy, help avoid tangles and help keep your house more free of shed hair. Brushing will also help you keep a closer eye on your pet health and strengthen your emotional bond with her. Her coat is of moderate length and medium coarseness. Be prepared to become real friendly with your vacuum cleaner if kept indoors. Her teeth should be brushed at least twice a week with toothpaste and toothbrush designed for dogs. Brushing removes the accumulation of plaque and tartar which can cause cavities (rarely) and periodontal disease. Dog periodontal disease can lead to pain, loss of teeth, bad breath and other serious disease.

*Life Span. The Australian Shepherd can live between 12 and 15 years with proper nutrition, medical care and excellent living conditions.

*History. The only working livestock breed actually developed in the western portion of America, although she does have some roots in Australia. She was developed from sheep dogs that were imported with flocks of sheep from Australia, France, Spain, New Zealand, Latin America and England during the late 1800 and early 1900 period, especially during the California gold rush. Australian Shepherds were popularized, especially in California, after World War II by horse shows, rodeos and movies.

*Registries:

ASCR Australian Shepherd Club of America

UKC United Kennel Club

NKC National Kennel Club

CKC Continental Kennel Club

APRI Americas Pet Registry Inc.

AKC American Kennel Club

*Category: Herding group.

*Terms To Describe The Breed: Intelligent, good natured, even disposition, good stamina, agile, muscular, balanced and devoted.

*SPECIAL GOOD POINTS

He is a loyal companion.

Easy to train.

Excellent farm dog.

Easy to housebreak.

Eager to please.

Wants to be with their master constantly.

Makes a great family dog.

Her pretty coat comes in amazing colors.

*SPECIAL BAD POINTS

Needs lots of exercise.

Needs a job to do.

Wants to be with their master constantly.

Can be very territorial.

May bark at neighbors too much.

May become destructive if bored.

Can have health problems.

May shed copiously.

Can by shy, especially with strangers.

*Other Names Known By: The Aussie, wiggle-butt

Resource: http://www.isnare.com/?aid=112120&ca=Pets